The smokey eye is the single most-requested eye makeup technique — and for good reason. It’s universally flattering, works for any occasion, and once you master the basics, you can adapt it endlessly. Whether you’re going for a subtle daytime look or full red-carpet drama, the technique stays the same. Only the intensity changes.
What You’ll Need
- Eyeshadow primer or concealer
- Matte transition shade (warm medium brown)
- Dark matte shadow (black, charcoal, or deep brown)
- Shimmer or satin highlight shade
- Pencil eyeliner (brown or black)
- Blending brush (fluffy, tapered)
- Flat shader brush
- Small smudge brush
- Mascara
Budget tip: You don’t need a $50 palette to create a great smokey eye. Drugstore brands with good pigmentation and blendability (like NYX, Maybelline, or e.l.f.) work beautifully. The key is in the technique, not the price tag.
Step-by-Step Tutorial
Step 1: Prime Your Lids
Apply a thin layer of eyeshadow primer from lash line to brow bone. This prevents creasing and makes colors more vibrant — it can double the wear time of your shadow. If you don’t have primer, dab on a thin layer of concealer and set with translucent powder.
Step 2: Apply the Transition Shade
Using a fluffy blending brush, sweep your warm brown transition shade through the crease and slightly above. This creates a seamless gradient and prevents harsh lines. Use windshield-wiper motions back and forth through the crease. The transition shade acts as your safety net — it bridges the gap between bare skin and the dark shades.
Step 3: Deepen the Outer Corner
With a smaller, tapered brush, apply your dark shade to the outer V of the eye (the outer corner extending into the crease). Build the color gradually — three thin layers look better than one heavy application. Focus the darkest pigment right at the outer corner where the upper and lower lash lines meet.
Step 4: Smoke Out the Lid
Using a flat shader brush, press the dark shade across the entire lid, concentrating color near the lash line and fading upward. Pat the color on rather than swiping for better pigment payoff. The key word is “press” — this deposits maximum color with minimal fallout.
Step 5: Blend, Blend, Blend
This is the most important step. Using a clean fluffy brush, blend the edges where the dark shadow meets the transition shade. Use small circular motions. There should be no harsh lines — just a smooth gradient from dark to light.
The 60% rule: You should spend roughly 60% of your total application time blending. If your smokey eye took you 10 minutes, about 6 of those should be blending. Most beginners rush this step, which is why their smokey eye looks patchy rather than seamless.
Step 6: Line the Waterline
Apply pencil liner to your lower waterline and upper waterline for intensity. Then smudge a little dark shadow along the lower lash line using a small smudge brush, fading toward the outer corner. Keep the lower lash shadow at about one-third the intensity of the upper lid — this keeps the look balanced rather than raccoon-like.
Step 7: Highlight
Apply a shimmer or satin shade to the inner corner of your eye and just below the brow bone. This creates dimension and makes your eyes pop. For the inner corner, use a small, precise brush or your fingertip to really pack the shimmer on. This one detail can transform the entire look from flat to professional.
Step 8: Mascara
Apply 2-3 coats of volumizing mascara, wiggling the wand from root to tip. This frames the smokey eye and ties the look together. Consider curling your lashes first — the lift opens up the eye area and prevents the dark shadow from making your eyes look smaller.
Adapting for Your Eye Shape
Hooded Eyes
Extend the shadow slightly above your natural crease so it remains visible when your eyes are open. Apply your darkest shade with your eyes open to check placement. Avoid creating a thick, heavy line along the crease — instead, focus on diffusing color upward.
Monolid Eyes
Concentrate the dark shade across the entire lid and graduate it slightly above the lash line. Skip the crease work and focus on creating a beautiful gradient from the lash line upward. Tightlining (lining the upper waterline) adds definition without closing down the eye.
Round Eyes
Elongate the eye by extending shadow outward past the outer corner in a slight wing shape. Keep the inner corner lighter and concentrate depth on the outer half.
Deep-Set Eyes
Keep the crease work minimal — deep-set eyes already have natural shadow. Focus on the lid and lash line, and use shimmer or satin shades on the lid to bring the eyes forward.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
| Mistake | Fix |
|---|---|
| Too much product at once | Build color in thin, sheer layers |
| Not blending enough | Spend 60% of your time blending |
| Skipping primer | Always prime — it extends wear and vibrancy |
| Harsh lower lash line | Use a smudge brush and blend downward |
| Ignoring eye shape | Apply with eyes open to check placement |
| Using the wrong brush | Fluffy for blending, flat for packing, small for detail |
| Fallout under the eyes | Apply eye shadow before foundation, or hold a tissue under |
Smokey Eye Variations
The Natural Smokey
Use warm browns and taupes instead of black. Perfect for daytime or work. This is the most wearable version and a great place to start if you’ve never tried a smokey eye before.
The Colored Smokey
Swap black for burgundy, navy, forest green, or plum. Same technique, completely different mood. Burgundy is particularly stunning on green and hazel eyes, while navy brings out brown eyes.
The Glam Smokey
Add a metallic or glitter shade to the center of the lid after completing the matte smokey base. The contrast between matte edges and a reflective center is stunning and adds dimension that catches light beautifully.
The Minimal Smokey
Use just a pencil liner — apply thickly along the lash line and smudge outward with your finger or a smudge brush. Takes 2 minutes and looks effortlessly cool. This is the go-to for a quick “I woke up like this” vibe.
Pro Tips for Longevity
- Set your crease with a matte shadow even over primer for maximum staying power.
- Use a setting spray after completing your look — hold the bottle about 8 inches from your face and mist once.
- Carry a smudge brush for touch-ups — smokey eyes can settle into the crease during long events.
- Skip waterproof mascara with extremely dramatic smokey eyes — if your eyes water, waterproof formulas can leave dark smudges that are harder to clean up mid-event.
Sources
- Eldridge, L. (2015). Face Paint: The Story of Makeup. Abrams Books.
- Bobbi Brown. (2019). Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual. Grand Central.
- American Academy of Dermatology. (2024). “How to care for skin around the eyes.”
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Frequently Asked Questions
What colors work best for a smokey eye?
Classic black and charcoal are foolproof, but browns, taupes, burgundy, and even navy create beautiful smokey eyes. For beginners, start with warm browns — they're more forgiving than black.
How do I prevent my smokey eye from looking muddy?
Use a transition shade before going dark, blend in small circular motions, and always tap off excess shadow from your brush before applying. Building color gradually (sheer layers) prevents muddiness.
Can you do a smokey eye with hooded eyes?
Absolutely! The trick is to extend the shadow slightly above your crease and focus the darkest color close to the lash line. Apply with eyes open so you can see the shadow above your hood.
